Today I went to a wonderful town just south of Tel Aviv International Airport called Ramla (or Ramle depending on who you ask). My friend Ronit and I decided to check it out after our History of the Middle East teacher recommended it as one of Israel’s “hidden gems.” Established as a city by the Umayyad Caliph, al-Malik, in 716 CE, as part of Muslim expansion efforts, it was an important stop along the Damascus to Jaffa trade route. During this time, the White Mosque was built. Remnants of it still stand today. One huge difference between Israel and the US is how they treat tourism and ancient sites. In the US, you would never be able to go up to a 1,300 year old structure and “hang out.” There, we met a friendly man who says he will come there at night to think. We also came across two Israelis who were sitting under the arches, having a smoke, and listening to music. While some might think this is unappreciative of the structure’s history, I think it’s another type of appreciation, and one I really enjoy. The two men smoking and listening to music in the ruins of the White Mosque were very aware of the site’s history. At one point they asked us in Hebrew, “Did you know this is 1,300 years old?” And they can admire the amazing architecture and healing energy from up close. This is one of my favorite things about Israel. At at the same time, part of the reason Israelis are not as strict about ancient sites as Americans is because they have so many! It seems like in the states any structure that is over 500 years old, we try to preserve at all costs, which often means viewing it from a distance. However, in Israel, the whole country is ancient. Just in this small, walkable city alone, there were many sites to see that apply directly to our studies of the history of the Middle East. Next to the ruins of the White Mosque, the minaret of the Mosque, now known as the White Tower, still stands. It was built by the Mamluk sultan, ibn Khalhoun, in 1318. Must best attempt at some interior photos: It also served as a watch tower as it has a panoramic view of surrounding cities, such as Tel Aviv. Again, it was so cool that we were able to climb all the way to the top by ourselves. Another highlight was the Pool of Arches, which was a reservoir built in 789 CE, and today is an awesome canoeing experience. (Photo courtesy of Ronit and her blog, https://ronit-foundintranslation.blogspot.co.il/2014/11/not-my-normal-dagaa.html?m=1) I think we must have been canoeing for about an hour until they kicked us out to make room for another group. We also stumbled upon a beautiful Franciscan church built in 1902, dedicated to Joseph of Arimathea. He is purported to have taken Jesus off the cross and was from Ramla. Because it was a Sunday morning, there was a service going on...in Arabic! So cool! (Photo courtesy of Ronit and her blog, https://ronit-foundintranslation.blogspot.co.il/2014/11/not-my-normal-dagaa.html?m=1) In addition to ancient beauty, there was new stunning artwork as well. Lastly, we went to the Market in Ramla. I bought a ton of walnuts (only 44 shekels per kilo, the best price I’ve seen in Israel so far), sweet potatoes, turmeric, and rice seasoning. Yummy! So I have found my new favorite spot in Israel. Only a 40 minute train ride from Tel Aviv University, Ramla offers an amazing array of cultural and religious diversity, as well as a look at rich history, some of which fueled the existing conflict in the region. Being a gateway to Jerusalem, Ramla was invaded by the Crusaders, the Mamluks, the Ottomans, Napoleon, and the British. When the British partitioned the land between Jews and Arabs in 1947, it was Arab land. Israel bombed it, driving many of the Arabs out. Israel then gave the land to Jewish immigrants. Therefore, Ramla is absolutely a part of the Israeli-Palestinian conflict.
However, when I was there I did not see any remnants of the dispute. Talking to a native of Ramla, who is Bedouin, a typically Muslim community, he said Christians, Jews, and Muslims are friends in the town. He spoke with us about Sunnah, the third party mediation practice in Islam, which we also learned about in our Islamic studies classes. Although I’ve heard Ramla has a majority Jewish population and everyone spoke Hebrew, I did not see a single synagogue (although I’ve heard there’s an active Karaite center). These experiences of getting outside the Tel Aviv bubble confirm what I learn in classes and change my preconceived notions. Before our trip today, Ronit had told an Israeli acquaintance that she was going to Ramla. The Israeli told her that it’s a dangerous city. Though I’m sure her fears are well-founded, I can tell you that this was not my experience at all. I came across friendly people and never felt out of place. I will absolutely return and when I do, I have a list of what I want to do: -Buy more walnuts -Go to the Raml Aqueducts under the White Mosque (we didn’t go this time because Ronit and I were starving) -Find some synagogues (they must exist in Ramla) -Go to the Great Mosque (we went by during the hours it said they’d be open, but they were not open. When in Israel...) |
Details
ArchivesCategories |